Website of sailing yacht Tokomaru2's circumnavigation of the world
Crew: Nick Thomas and Liz Vernon
Compiled by Nick Thomas on “Tokomaru 2” a
Westerly Conway LOA 11m, draft 1.8m. September to November 2004.
A rather run down town but friendly
There are 2 yachty bars
1, Teddy’s on the front by the anchorage. There is a sign on the sea wall indicating its position. You can leave the dinghy on the beach here. Someone will probably offer their services as minder for US $1.
2, L’Avalon at the end of Jalan Garuda on the corner with Jalan G Mutis about 1000 meters left along the front street. Edwin Merrick is very helpful to yachts. His friend Napa Rahman will organise the clearance procedures for approximately US $40.
There are several banks with ATMs along Jalan Silwangi/ Jalan Garuda (the front street. There are 2 supermarkets but they only sell dry goods and at prices no different from smaller shops round the town. There is a bakery and Grocery near Teddy’s. Eating out is very inexpensive but there is not a great variety on the menu. We found no shop selling meat. We found the internet at the Yantel Telephone exchange on Jalan Yani. There are many stalls selling fruit near here.
We bought drinking water (Aqua – filtered
and ozonised tap water) in 20 litre containers at $1 a go plus deposit on the
container. We bought our jerry cans ashore and the dinghy minder fetched the
water for us, so we didn’t need to pay the deposit. We used this type of water
to fill our tanks throughout
We also bought diesel in jerry cans a
friend of the dinghy minder took the cans to a service station on his moped. We
were charged $0.25 per litre a mark up of about 25% on pump prices.
Edwin at L’Avalon can help to arrange a guide and transport to visit surrounding countryside and see rural life, traditional crafts etc.
The reason tourists come here is to see the Komodo “dragons” 2 to 3 metre long lizards.
We visited the
The anchorage at the south end of Rinca protected
by Nusa Kode in position 08°41.58S; 119°43.41E was very spectacular. The
entrance is easiest from the east staying in the centre of the channel keeps
clear of dangers. The anchorage off the beach is quite deep at 16 meters and is
exposed both to SE and SW winds which can whistle up both the east and west
entrances. This makes the beach a disconcerting lee shore. The local fishermen
sensibly anchor on the south side of the channel under the lee of
To get the full on dragon experience you
need to go to one of the park bases. On
From the jetty there is a path to the park ranger station. We were charged:
$1 dock fee
$2 Park fee each
$3 for a 2 hour, 5 km guided tour
$2.5 for each camera
$10 for each video camera
(Payable in Indonesian Rupiah; It helps to have the correct change).
We were given a receipt or ticket for each of these.
In addition to the ranger station the park base contains a guesthouse and a kiosk selling basic souvenirs and cold drinks
We saw 6 dragons in just the vicinity of the park base plus several more on the walk plus monkeys, deer, buffalo etc.
There is a pleasant anchorage off the Pier in about 18 metres of water. The anchorage is a bit exposed to winds from a southerly quarter but at night these seem to drop. This anchorage is protected from swell by 2 reefs off the south east and south west corners of the island. These are easily visible in good light. Some boats anchored on the eastern side of the island which is more sheltered if the wind is from SW - quite often we were told. This is also the beach and snorkelling side with many hotels and guest houses etc.
There are many bars and restaurants and a
few small shops.
We were told there was an anchorage on the
Bali International marina
This is a very pleasant and inexpensive
The pontoons have washing water and electricity. Most people buy drinking water in 20 litre containers from either the marina or Makro. The marina shop has a small stock of Indonesian charts.
Makro a big cash and carry type supermarket a £1 taxi ride on the way to Denpasar has most things (in large quantities) including meat veggies and bread. There is an ATM within the store.
There is a bank with ATM near the marina on
the main road turn left towards Benoa there are also some shops further along
this road with basic items such as bread and cold drinks.
Kumai (Approach posn 03°07s, 111°38e)
The reason for coming to this spot is to
For a description of the entrance the best one is to be found in the corrections to the South East Asia Cruising Guide vol 2 obtainable from the Imray website (Imray.com)
Someone will probably come out to direct you to an anchoring spot on the opposite side of the river from the town beyond the ferry quay. (Quite large Pelni Ferries come up this river). Ashore near this point is Harry’s yacht service just a hut and a pleasant restaurant stretching over the water. Harry or one of the other boat owners will come to sell you a visit to the park. This entails travelling on a boat called a klotok. The price is very negotiable depending on the number of people. The organiser will arrange all the food and the park permits. It is possible to either sleep on the klotok overnight or stay in a hotl/lodge in/near the park. There is no bank or ATM in Kumai the nearest is Pangkalanbun about 25 kms away.
We found this to be a very worthwhile visit
and one of the high lights of our trip so far.
Most people next head for Nongsa Point
marina on Batam island just south of
Tanjung Pinang on Bintan island
This was quite busy and finding an anchoring spot was tricky anchored well off the town at 00°54.1N, 104°25.1E for the night. Then went into the river to look for fuel. The most obvious fuel barge would not sell to yachts but a friendly water taxi driver took us to private enterprise water side fuel depot. If there was a Dickensian way to sell diesel this would be it – measured out by the bucket.
Nongsa point marina
This is a very pleasant place to end a
|Website © Nick Thomas and Liz Vernon 2008|