Crew: Nick Thomas and Liz Vernon
Cruising notes for Greece
Page references to Greek Waters pilot 9th ed. 2004 Rod Heikel Pub: Imray
We picked up Limnos (L) and Iraklion
(H) very well throughout the southern
Levitha p 280 36°59’ N, 26°30’E date of information Oct 2007
There are 10 red moorings in the Eastrn arm
of Ormos Levitha they are quite close together and the one furthest in are in
quite shallow water. We were charged €7 this applies for 3 nights. The Taverna is
very pleasant. The only wine they had was in bottles and quite expensive. No
GSM coverage in the anchorage but there was at the taverna.
Nisos Anafi p295 36°20’ N, 25°46’E, date of information Oct 2007.
I agree with the comments on swell especially if the wind has too much west in it. The breakwater was being extended while we were there. The red light has been switched off and the end of the workings indicated by a dim yellow flasher. The ferry jetty on the east side has been extended southwards and an even more extensive jetty built on the west side of the breakwater. The Poppy taverna is still to be recommended. The walk to Chora takes about 50 minutes to reach an altitude of 250m. There are 2 minimarkets and a nice bakery. There is an ATM near the taverna on the jetty. We could find no Internet access. GSM coverage was patchy in the harbour but OK in the Chora.
Nisos Leros p 438, date of information Sep 2007.
Lakki 37°07’ N, 26°50’ E
The breakwater for the proposed marina has been constructed and the marina is operational. Most visitors still use the Lakki marina on the western side. They use the “lazy line” system for tying up. We were charged €16.50 (ie €1.5 per m. per day). They have a temperamental and expensive wifi €5 per hour; or €3 to use the internet in the café. The old fashioned grocery store opposite the Alpha bank on the east side of town sells delicious olives and will exchange camping gas cylinders. The biggest super market is on the edge of town on the road to Platanos.
Xerokambos 37°06’ N, 26°53’ E
The breakwater in front of the fishing harbour has been enlarged. There is still little room for yachts.
Nisos Kalimnos p442 date of information Sep 2007.
Limin Kalimnos 36°56’N, 27° E
The marina continues to be kaput. The planned north breakwater is actual. There are water and electricity points along the jetty in front of Kalymna yachting, if you plug in some one will come by and turn it on for €5 which lasts 2-3 days. The Mariner outboard agent on the road between yacht jetty and the defunct marina was very helpful to us.
Vathi 36°58’N, 27°02’E
Not much room for manoeuvre in here. There is no sign of the proposed pontoons. There are submerged boulders on the north side of the pier where it joins the quay. Nevertheless is a very delightful and photogenic place. The bus from Kalimnos town is only €2 or you can walk the “Italian way” over the mountain, about 3 hours.
Nisos Kos p449 date of information Sep 2007.
Old harbour 36°54’N, 27°17’E
A new pier has been built projecting NE
from the north of the north side of the entrance. There are water and electric
points which is included in price €16 per day in our case. An attendant who
resides in a kiosk on the corner between the yacht jetty and the ferry jetty
may direct you to a slot.
This is all singing and dancing. With helpful and courteous staff. There is free wifi which can reach many of the pontoons or you can take the laptop into the very pleasant TV lounge next to reception.
We had maintenance work done here and can recommend Takis Paspalidis and his colleagues Costas and Dmitri who operate out of “Yacht shelter” a workshop on the first floor above the gents showers.
There are four chandleries, 2 in the marina
complex and 2 slightly less expensive within 100m of the southern entrance
gate. Between them they have a good variety of stock and they can order stuff
in but expect to pay through the nose if Plastimo have anything to do with it.
We found it to be several hundred Euros cheaper to have a new cooker flown out
Nisos Nisiros p452 date of information June 2007.
Palon 36°37’N, 27°10’E
Very nice harbour but it can become very busy. The car hire company in Mandraki will deliver a car to the harbour.
Mandraki 36°36’N, 27°08’E
The alongside berths suggested are fully utilised by tripper boats from Kardomena. Stern too at the south end of the quay would be possible but Palon is much better.
Nisos Simi p457 date of information June 2007.
Panormitis 36°33’N, 27°50’E
Very pleasant anchorage.
Although the breakwater has been built this still shows no sign of completion. We saw one or two adventurous boats anchor inside the breakwater.
Mandraki 36°27’N, 28°14’E
This is the place to go when visiting
Visitors now mostly go in the north east corner in the section marked “hydrofoils” on the plan. An attendant may direct you to a slot but he will not assist with taking lines. Anchor bow or stern too being wary of the chain. It is also possible to moor in the charter yacht berths but not on Friday or the rest of the weekend if they are expecting their clients to return in which case the slots will be roped off. The old visitors pontoon on the north section of the western side is very rickety and is mostly taken up with “ground to a halt” live-aboards. We paid €5 perday plus €5 for water and electricity. There are more yachts than electricity pods so when some one leaves plug in immediately – don’t waste a minute – and then negotiate a prepaid card from the attendant. The €5 buys a certain, unspecified, amount of electricity which in our case lasted about 4 days; unused units “disappear” when the plug is removed.
The minimarkets at the south end of the basin are well stocked and will exchange camping gas bottles.
The port police are polite but punctilious.
Nisos Astipalaia p 471 date of information Oct 2007.
Skala 36°33’N, 26°22’E
Building work has been attempted here but
as with so many harbour improvements in
Nevertheless we had an enjoyable stay here. The tavernas are pleasant and the minimarkets reasonably well stocked. There was also a good bakery in the harbour area and a better stocked supermarket in the Chora near the row of 7 windmills.
Ormos Maltezana 36°35’N, 26°23’E
A new short breakwater has been built on the east side of the exhisting jetty projecting west ward for about 40 metres. There is space for only one or two yachts on the end of the jetty. The shelter in the anchorage was very good.
Skala Thira The basin was full of bumboats used to ferry cruise ship passengers ashore. The cable car was operational, six cabins capable of carrying 6 persons travel each way every half hour.
This is now the main ferry port. A spectacular serpentine road takes travellers to the top of the cliff.
Vlichada 36°20’N, 25°26’E p294
We stayed here during a SW gale. Although the forecast was B 8 we only measured winds to 7 with gusts to 35 knots on our instruments. The harbour is secure in these conditions but entry and exit would be impossible due to swell breaking in the entrance. There are no markers indicating the reefs/sunken breakwaters in the approach. However the directions in the pilot worked fine. Lights have been installed on the end of the main breakwater and opposite on the north side of the entrance as shown on the plan on the latest edition of Imray chart G34. The harbour has indeed silted along the north side of the main, southern, breakwater especially by the dog leg. Don’t be fooled by the large motor ketch moored here with a motor boat alongside they are so firmly aground as to be entombed. We saw how it was done – during the gale swells brought sand and pumice over the breakwater.
Fishing vessels have largely taken over all
the berths. Some local yachts have put up “no mooring” signs” fishing boats
indicate their spot with tires and piles of nets. The possible spots for
visitors are stern too in the west corner of the
There are two tavernas on the cliff above
the harbour accessed by a staircase. They can arrange a hire car. There are no
shops in easy walking distance. Buses run 3 times a day to
There are signs that the harbour is still
being worked on but at the current rate of progress it will take an eternity to
complete. The cynical might say this is because the locals are happy with this
state of affairs as there appear to be no fees and we found no activity from
any authorities. The lack of beacons may be, reducing the numbers of visiting
Nisos Ios p 288. Date of information Oct 2007.
Port Ios 36°43’N, 26°16’E
A row of buoys mark off the swimming area
of the beach for the whole width of the NE end of the bay. A new breakwater has
been built west wards to shelter the moorings of the fishing boats on the
western side of the harbour. About 12 Lazy lines with buoys have been installed
on the East quay for yachts to moor stern/bows too instead of anchoring. A
massive chain runs across the harbour about 50 metres to seaward of the quay
from approximately opposite the “Breakfast Giros” etc restaurant on the north
side to the “Octopus tree” taverna on the south side. The lazy lines are
attached to this, I presume. Getting an anchor caught in this if one chooses
not to use the lazy line does not bear thinking about. There is much weed and
other detritus on the seabed to make anchoring interesting. We were not too
bothered by ferry wash although there can be as many as 10 movements a day. The
high speed catamarans can accelerate to 30 knots while still in view of the
yacht quay, if our AIS is to be believed. The deceleration on arrival is only
slightly less dramatic.
A long green hose can provide water, it is
non potable, A charge is not made out of season. Drinking water can be obtained
from the very convenient supermarket at the SE corner of the harbour.
Nisos Sifnos p 254 Date of Information Nov 2007.
Kamares 36°59.5’N, 24°39’E
Signs indicate that the yacht berths are on the south side of the harbour and fishing boats on the south end of the mole. There is evidently some overlap. There was evidence that lazy lines had been installed at one time but little remains now. There are water points on the quay with a number to call for the attendant. There is a small supermarket about 100m towards the town. The port police were not much interested in seeing our paperwork.
Nisos Serifos p 253 Date of information Nov 2007.
Livadhiou 37°08’N, 24°31’E
Signs on the North jetty indicate the yacht and fishermen’s berths. Yachts go on the seaward end. The pods for water and electricity were non functional. The Malabar café a little way north of the jetty has a wifi intenet conection if you bring your own laptop.
Porto Heli p 209 37°19’N, 23°08’E, date of
information Nov 2007.
Telephone numbers painted on the pavement by the yacht quay indicate the person to summon for water and diesel.
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